9.26.2014

Dior ...

I know I normally post about the historical parallels when I blog about fashion, but this one is going to be a pure eulogy as I'm looking online at Style.com from whence these photos come doesn't even have any design notes or historical analogies.

The buttons and loops here running down the front of the coat are now a key Dior feature, but were introduced by John Galliano when he joined the House.

Galliano was fired and replaced by Raf Simons, who initially seemed shockingly minimalist and modern. Several seasons in Simons has proven himself to be a worthy successor to both Christian Dior and Galliano, paying tribute to their silhouettes and little trademarks whilst revolutionizing a brand that had become debased when their 'ironic' 'trashy' pieces and looks were taken up wholesale by WAGs.

Simons has brought the brand back and shown us he deserves his place in fashion.




As always the looks on the catwalk are more showy than the beautifully cut understated pieces that will end up in the Dior boutiques.

This Ottoman style dress shows nicely how the rows of buttons and loops are as associated today with the Near East and North Africa. The embroidered pockets and flared tulip sleeves save it from being too like a piece one can pick up in a souk.

A similar design is here turned into a coat, which I suspect would be too ethnic looking for most.

Again the Orientalist influence is clear in the cut and buttons, but the fabric and colour make this coat seem very modern.


I used to have a short jacket in wine silk velvet just like this made by Beldi in Marrakesh. (Note to self - must remember who borrowed it and get it back ... and that Martin Grant dress ...)


Quick disclaimer - no affiliate links, but I've worn Dior for years, sometimes thanks to the generosity of LVMH.